Showing posts with label language barriers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label language barriers. Show all posts

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Detriments of Language Barriers

Last Friday, February 4, as part of our three-day celebration of Seoulal, I invited my friend Holly to come down from Seoul to visit me in the Byeongjeom area. After four and a half hours of travel time and minimal communication between us, she still hadn't shown up at my door. When she called from a stranger's cell phone to tell me that she had gotten off at the wrong bus stop, I decided to come get her.

Running across the darkening street minutes before 6 that night, I stepped into the back seat of the only cab waiting at the taxi stop. "Sen-tuh-ral Pah-kuh ka chuseyo," I asked the driver in my best Korean.

"Odi?" he countered. Where?

I didn't answer him. As the Park itself is several thousand acres, I figured he'd take me to the most popular side and if need be, I could direct him from there. I didn't know how to say, "The central part of Central Park--you know, where everyone goes."

He asked me something unitelligible in Korean as we set off, but I ignored that question as well. I then saw him motion someone downing a shot glass with his right hand, and heard him couch his action with yet another indistinct question. Though I couldn't understand his words, his meaning was unmistakable.

He had just witnessed me running across the street! Drunk people don't walk, much less run! Appalled, I sharply corrected him. "Andeo," I answered forcefully. Young Sook had recently taught me that the word was synonymous with heck no.

"Anio?" he asked politely, glancing at me through the rearview mirror. After a few steely moments, he asked another question. Seeing the still-blank look on my face, he added, "Country?"

"Miguk. Miguk saram eh-ee-yo," I said in perfect Korean, in an effort to redeem myself.

"Miguktharameeoh..." he repeated in mock drunk-speech, mimicking my apparent ill pronunciation.

The man continued to ask me questions as he drove on, many of them familiar ones like "Where do you work?" and "Are you an English teacher?" But I stopped answering them--and whatever I did answer was in the form of a curt, one-word response.

Ten minutes later, we arrived at the Park, just across the street from where Holly sat waiting. I could have asked the man to hold while I called to my friend, but nothing within me wanted to spend another moment in his taxicab. I quickly paid my oh chon won and left.

Frustrated, I confessed the story to Holly as we stood in the cold waiting for bus 27. "I don't care about my witness, Holly," I told her. "If you know me, you know that's not who I am. What upsets me is that this is his perception."

"The sad thing is that those are the kinds of foreigners he sees," she intoned. And I had to admit she was probably right.

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

A Ticket to Ri-Hi-Hide

As early as the beginning of September, I have wanted to go to a little-visited country in the Horn of Africa called Ethiopia. I had just found out that some friends would be moving there shortly and I hoped that, as a somewhat experienced expatriate by now, I could encourage them in their transition. "I don't know if this is from the LORD or not," I wrote in an email, "but can I come visit you?"

The two of them--my friend and her husband--had been on my heart ever since I first learned of their trans-Altantic venture. I had met the couple two years before through an organization that we were all three a part of in my hometown. Because we were close in age and season of life, those of us in the group became close friends. As they had already bid farewell to the members of the organization back home, I felt so sure that I was in a unique position to come alongside them in tangible moral support: I was already out of the country and had already been dealing with many of the situations foreigners tend to face away from home.

If I could just get to them! I thought. I felt so sure I’d get to go for Chuseok, but by the time I checked out ticket prices, only two weeks before the proposed flight dates, they were already far too rich for my meager teacher’s salary. Perhaps I’d be able to afford a ticket for my next week-long holiday, Christmas. It was her favorite holiday, I knew, one that she loved spending with family. If she was necessarily away on Christmas, maybe having me there would make home seem less a little less far away.

My Korean friend Young Sook, who happened to be a travel agent, came over to my house at the beginning of November for dinner. As she sat on my floor enjoying peppery two-bean chili, I told her about the possibility of going to Ethiopia. It was the first time I had voiced my potential plans to anyone besides the friends I would visit, and the first time I actually felt that the trip could happen. Hope filled the night as we sat chatting endlessly about the opportunity. “Ethiopia,” she said in amazement. “Your ticketing, I want.”

Like a good travel agent, that night she advised me when it would be a good time to book such a flight: thirty to forty days out would be best, she noted. Armed with the dates we had chosen for the trip--Sunday, December 26 through Saturday, the first--she worked steadily each week of November to find me a good deal. By Thanksgiving, we would surely need a ticket reserved, if not already bought. Three weeks after the initial friendly consultation, amid piles of the spicy legs and wings of Thanksgiving fried chicken at her house, Young Sook informed me that she had finally reserved an itinerary for me. Perfect. All that was left now was to purchase it.

Because my reservations would only be held for one week, Young Sook asked me to pay for the flight by the second of December. I marked it on my cell phone’s calendar: “Confirm and pay for ticket by this date,” read the memo attached to the following Thursday. One step closer.

Thursday night grew ever closer, and with its approach, a growing sense of dread filled my heart. From its conception, I had been debating the wisdom of such a weighty decision as spending $1500 on something so frivolous as a plane ticket. Here I was on the eve of purchase with no more sense of peace than when I had started praying about the trip in September.

My hesitation to follow through was two-fold: The ticket Young Sook had found would cost $1800, almost double what I had found by myself weeks ago while searching quickly for a deal online. Already nervous about spending much of my savings on the trip, I didn't know how prepared I was to fork over all of it just on a ride to get me there. The other problem was that the night my friend had found the tickets, I had more than enough to cover the price in my account back home; one week later, however, due to pesky little things called student loans, I would be short $200. Whatever other reason for not following through, I knew that purchasing tickets that day would be financially impossible.

That Saturday, December 4, I decided to visit my friend Josh's Bible study in Seoul. He was scheduled to leave country the following week for a permanent change of duty stations, but would be at the Bible study one last time--so I thought I would come for moral support. It proved to be a powerful afternoon, with many opportunities for the LORD to speak His truth to the hearts that were gathered: We listened to a DVD message about sin being more than just a mistake and to both Josh and another Jennifer giving their testimonies.

We also had an opportunity to ask for prayer. While sharing my thoughts about my hagwon and whether to stay in South Korea for a few more months, I considered telling them about my pending trip to Ethiopia. In the end, however, I decided that details of the visit need not be shared.

After finishing our time of prayer, Jenn, the girl who had just told us her story, leaned over to where I sat on the floor, with what she felt was a message from the LORD. "He's asking you to make a decision," she conveyed, "but it’s only because He loves you." I muled her words over in my brain for a few moments as the reality of it sank in. My interpretation: Decide not to go to Ethiopia. Because He loves you.

The more I thought of it, the more I was sure the decision would necessarily be a negative one--a fact I conveyed to my friend in Ethiopia when I chatted with her online about the trip.

"But that's not what she said!" she interrupted, referring to Jenn's message. "Even if it's not to go to Ethiopia, it's not negative. God's plan for you is always the best."

Though I knew she was right, I was still disappointed. "I really want to come," I told her.

“I want you to come, too,” my friend replied. “But if you’re fighting God about it, you would be miserable.”

In the middle of the following week, I wrote in my prayer journal that I felt God had been steadily preparing me for what I was then facing. My paycheck for the month had been two days late by this time and I would still be waiting for it another two days. "If I encounter some emergency between now and the time I get paid," I wrote, "I have money back home to cover it. But if I had bought my plane ticket to Ethiopia last week, I wouldn't have. I never felt released to do so--and now I know why."

That week, I didn't see Young Sook until Friday, the day I was finally paid. "You still think Ethiopia," she told me as we walked toward the bus stop together. "I think not." What I didn't tell her that night was that I was beginning to feel the same thing.

One of my initial worries about paying for the flight had to do with needing enough money left over for transportation and shopping. As I sat crunching numbers in my tiny apartment, I figured I could still make the trip if I bought minimal groceries in December, saved all of my "fun money" for the month until I landed in Africa, and if I was specific in what kind of Christmas present my family could get me.

"Instead of sending me a package this year," I asked them via email, "why not contribute to my trip to Ethiopia?" I was worried for a week as no one had responded to my request, but then I started getting confirmation from them one-by-one. Perhaps the trip was still on!

Wednesday night, December 15, I made one final online search for tickets to Ethiopia leaving from Seoul December 26. As it was a week and a half from the date of departure, I was sure that quotes would be hiked and not affordable. But there it was on my computer screen, the exact price from a month before: China Southern Air, multiple stops, $900. With fees and et cetera, the total cost would come to a little over $1300 USD--much less than Young Sook's estimate, with wiggle room and cash to spare. The trip was finally starting to materialize.

Quickly, I sent her a text message: "I found a ticket I can afford," I wrote.

The next morning, she sent me something back. "Wow trips," she wrote in broken English. "OK!! See you."

That night we sat at her computer to pay for my ticket. I showed her the price that I had found and she instantly got to work. It was like witnessing language fluency, watching Young Sook swiftly punch things like “26DECICNCAN*CZ” into a database system that reminded me of a blue-backed version of DOS. Through various airport acronyms and one-letter commands, within minutes she had put together the exact itinerary for the same price I had found the previous day. I was amazed.

When she had first seen the website I had used, she couldn't believe that the ticket could be 400,000 won less than what she had initially put together for me. Dismayed, she tried to suggest that the site must have offered a fifty percent discount. But finding the price there, amid trusted abbreviations staring back at her, she could not deny the website's accuracy. An affordable price secure in my mind, I told my friend that I had planned to use my American account to purchase the ticket, and we agreed to fax over my information the very next morning.

The morning of December 17, our school's secretary sent over to Young Sook's office the documents necessary for securing my safe passage to Ethiopia. Hours later, the fax still had not gone through. By the time it finally worked, Young Sook sent a desperate message with her account number and bank's name in Korean: "Jennifer," it read, "only cash... ticketing!!"

I called her back moments later, as I should have been preparing to feed my students lunch. "Jeny-pah," she said soothingly. "We are ticketing cash only. Lunchtime, you go. Call you. Happy lunch."

Through a volley of text messages and phone calls that afternoon between classes, with Grace acting as translator, I was able to extrapolate the story: Apparently one of the airlines that Korean travel agencies work with—which just so happened to be the airline I was trying to fly with, China Southern Air--did not accept foreign credit or debit cards. Either I could head to Seoul that instant and physically swipe my card at Young Sook's office, or I could withdraw the money from a global ATM and deposit it into her account. As I had already spent my forty-minute break period for the day and still faced a completely booked afternoon without liberty to fly off to Seoul, the only possibility for me was to visit the local bank.

The prospect of transferring money into someone's account was already nerve-racking, but knowing that I needed first to convert it to cash, which could be lost or stolen, upped the ante. Nervously, I fit my foreign card into the mouth of the ATM and pressed the "English" button, asking to withdraw 1,000,000 won (about $800) from my American account. Denied twice, I finally just asked for 500,000, which the machine spit out in fifty bright green 10,000-won bills. There I stood with a two-inch wad of cash, my entire student loan payment for the month in my hands. This being just under a third of what I needed, I tried withdrawing 500,000 more only to be denied again. Struck with the realization that my limit for ATM withdrawals on the account was $500, I sulked back upstairs to class.

"I couldn't take out the money," I tried telling Young Sook as I stood at the elevator. "I can't buy the ticket today."

"Jeny-pah," she replied. "Call you back."

"No, I have class," I tried to say--but she hung up and cheerily called me right back, just as promised. Again I tried explaining that I wasn't able to transfer the money and needed to go to class. When she still didn't seem to understand, I told her I would just have to call her back during my break.

On the phone with her forty minutes later, she reminded me that airport ticketing agencies would close at five and that I should transfer the money right away. I tried explaining the situation, but as I had gotten nowhere by the start of my next class, I handed the phone to back to Grace. Moments later, as I began instructing my near-fluent seven-year-olds, Grace knocked on my door, her basket of teaching supplies in hand. It was just a few minutes till four p.m.
"Jenny-fur," she said nervously, "ah, you have to go to the bank and transfer money to the account. Go to KB bank. You have to be back by four-thirty. You have to go now! They close at four." Quickly I explained the lesson to her, grabbed my jacket, and raced downstairs, trying to beat time.

I first approached KEB, a branch just a block away on the corner of our winding street, only to see their "365 Bank" open but the staircase leading to the lobby on the second floor barred by a heavy metal gate. "No," I shouted to the blinking automatic tellers. It was then that I remembered I needed to find KB instead, and walked back outside to search the business district's towering edifice. Spotting the bank mere yards away, I ducked inside and tried the second floor.

The elevator opened and I stepped into an empty hallway with a gated entrance to my right, moments too late. Just as I turned to go back downstairs, a door to the side of the gate swung open enough for two figures to emerge, the shiny wooden flooring from the lobby beckoning me from the other side.

One of the figures I noted to be a young employee of KB bank, and I asked him desperately if I could come in. "Mo-ney trans-puh," I offered feebly, to which he reluctantly agreed. He led me through the deserted lobby to a woman's desk and began filling out requisite paperwork for the exchange. I held up my card to show them the money wasn't coming from a Korean bank. "Can I use this?" I asked. At the sight of the card, he offered to escort me downstairs and to another global ATM for me to withdraw the necessary cash.

"I can't," I said as we waited for the gate to lift enough to duck through the opening. "I can't take out any more money. I will show you." I stood with the two employees for several minutes as I tried in vain to take out more cash, being denied each time.

Back upstairs, members of the bank staff asked to call my travel agency and as I waited for them to get in touch with Young Sook, I had another idea. "Can I borrow your computer?" I asked the young man. If cash wouldn't do it, an online transfer might work. I glanced at my cell phone: 4:27. I might have just enough time.

The young man showed me to a computer that could have been as ancient as my ten-year-old desktop I had left back home. While waiting for it to boot up, staff members motioned me to the phone. "Jenny-pah," Young Sook said sympathetically. "Air-fort close five p.m. Today not ticketing. Today my home you go." I nodded and put the phone back in its cradle.

That night at Young Sook's house, I tried booking the flight online--only to be told by the website that my bank in the States had denied such a hefty purchase. Young Sook nodded understandingly. "China Southern Airlines," she said, "cash only." We agreed for me to call my bank, ask for permission to withdraw more money, and meet again the following day.

At 10:15 that Saturday morning, eight days exactly to the day of my flight, I showed up at her doorstep, ready to hand over the rest of the ticket price and be on my way. After all, my bank had assured me the night before that the limit on my account would be temporarily raised enough to cover the cost. Young Sook and I approached another global ATM to discover the same problem still existed--only now I had in my hands not one student loan payment, but two.
"It's okay," she said to me. "You give me one million and I pay the rest. You give me money Monday. Okay?" I agreed and walked her to KB to deposit the cash. Later, as the bus to Byeongjeom Station pulled up to its nearest stop, she assured me that she would have the tickets before one that afternoon.

In front of the ATM at the top of the steps of the station, she called back. "Jenny-fur, oops," she said by way of apology. "My account not money. Your one million, but not money." Apparently, then, we would have to purchase the journey one leg at a time. "Which ticket you want? Incheon to Gwangxou (China) ticketing, okay?"

As I sat semi-comfortably on the subway, my phone rang again, this time with worse news. "You on your way to Seoul?" she asked, hoping I wasn't. "Jenny-pah, yesterday Ethiopia flight one seat, you remember? Today not. No seat."

My heart sank further as I continued to listen. It was hard to hear her over the roar of the train, but the message was clear--exactly what I knew the LORD had been prompting for weeks.
"Tomorrow we are meeting ticketing okay?"

"No," I said authoritatively. "No. I can't go."

"There's been a change of plan," I wrote in my next email to my friend in Ethiopia, relaying the myriad complications of failing to purchase my ticket.

"Sweet Jennifer," she wrote back, "I think God's REALLY trying to tell you he has other plans for you next week. I love you, and I wish I could get to see you, but we need to walk in obedience more than anything."

All I could say in reply were four simple words: "I. think. you're. right."

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Lessons with Young Sook

Like Labor Day for those in the U.S., fall usually starts just after Chuseok in Korea. The very next week after the holiday this year, as if on cue from the fashion experts, temperatures began to drop in accordance with the new season. Natives and foreigners alike donned sweaters, light jackets, and scarves for the first time since May to battle autumn’s crisp chill. In search of a thicker jacket to keep me warmer than the one I had brought from Texas, Thursday night, September 30, I decided to visit a local thrift shop near Byeongjeom Station to browse their secondhand selection.

As I entered the store, a young-looking woman wearing dressy jeans and shiny gray heels stood in front of the only full-length mirror in the small establishment. Her face was shaped almost like a heart, wide at the forehead and cheekbones and very narrow at the chin. Her eyes were slanted slightly, but bigger than the average Asian’s, with a crease on the upper eyelid much like a Caucasian’s. Her kinky black hair curled wildly at its ends near her shoulders and her skin looked smooth except at the corners of her eyes.

Spying their tell-tell brown and black sleeves, I ventured towards the leather jackets on the far wall of the store, crossing paths with the woman at the mirror to get to them. I first examined the thickness of each jacket, and then noted which of the thicker ones I liked best. Not seeing a fitting room and unsure if it were proper Korean etiquette to wear merchandise before purchase, I aimlessly fingered my finds, biding my time. The woman stepped closer to my direction for a moment, apparently interested in the same stock, and I took the opportunity to slip to another part of the small store so as not to disturb her.

Moments later, I spied her with one of the darker brown jackets I had just examined, considering herself in the mirror; I decided to help her decide. “Chooahyo,” I said, then repeated the meaning in English. “Good.”

She looked directly at me and replied flawlessly in a sultry alto, “Thank you very much.”

This woman speaks English! I almost shouted out loud. “Can--can we try on clothes?” I asked a bit hesitantly, gesturing with my hands.

“Yes, of course,” she nodded, turning back to the mirror.

I walked back over to the back wall and began searching for my earlier picks, my back to the woman for a moment. “I see you,” she said; I turned around. The phrase brought to mind moments when I would play hide-and-seek games with my two-year-old Sunday school classes. She sounded endearingly child-like, but I was unsure what she meant by it. I thought for a moment about Koreans’ broken usage and misunderstanding of synonyms. “I see you,” she said again and smiled. That was it! I thought. She wanted me to be the fashion model—she wanted to watch me try the jackets on!

I selected a beige button-up jacket for inspection, which came six or so inches past my hips. She indicated the mirror and this time I stood in front of it. “Nice,” she smiled broadly.


However, I wasn't too impressed with the length. “Is it too long?” I asked slowly.

“Is it too long,” she repeated flatly, without the rising intonation of a question. Clearly, the structure of English inquiries was a bit lost on her—that, or she was trying to use the phrasing of a question as a statement, what you could easily get away with in Korean. She scrunched her brow and looked at me quizzically. “I’m sorry,” she said, this time raising her intonation.

I tried again. I pointed to the brown jacket she was trying on. “Short,” I said as I stopped my hand at the height of her hip. “Long,” I said, pulling a hand down my leg. “Is it”—I held my hands in a shrug—“too long?” It felt a little like another English lesson.

“No,” she said. “Jooahyo.” Good.

Chooahyo?” I asked. I thought I hadn’t heard her right. I knew the words for good and for cold sounded very similar in Korean: What I thought was good sounded like “choo” to my ears; the other, cold, like “cho.”

Joo,” she corrected. She took my hands and in the air spelled out “J-u” in Korean letters.

“Ju!” I exclaimed. I could now see the difference—I had been confusing the “j” sound for “ch.” It was jooahyo, not chooahyo! All this time I had been making something up in Korean!

I wondered about this woman’s age as I interacted with her that night; she seemed older just by the way she carried herself. And yet, she also looked modern and trendy, something a younger woman would surely be as well. I had heard her talking with someone moments before on the phone. “Issoyo,” she had said. They have it here. I assumed that she had been talking with a member of her family and I reasoned that she must be there shopping for her children.

“Do you have children?” I asked.

“My no!” she exclaimed, shocked that I would ask. Did she look like she had children? “Single.” She held up her fingers, counting on them. “Thirty…” she tried. “Thirty-eight.” She could have put the words “I’m only” in front of the number.

“I’m sorry,” I said, almost ashamed at my comment. I should have know better than to ask a question full of such assumptions in a culture whose men don’t fully mature until their late thirties, which leaves capable young women like her looking for husbands even into their forties. “Me, too,” I said, indicating my singleness. “I am… twenty-seven.” Though that answer was almost a year off my real age, Koreans add one year to account for gestation; in their eyes, I am that age already.

Despite what would seem to a Westerner like a large age gap, this woman seemed at peace knowing we were both in similar life stages. Perhaps we were at similar maturity levels as well. “My name is Young Sook,” she said, offering a first step towards friendship. “What is your name?”

“My name is Jennifer,” I said, accenting the “i” as if it were an “ee,” like a Korean would.

“Ah, Je-ny-pah,” she repeated. “Beautiful name.” She paused for a moment and then asked tentatively, “Where… where you job?”

I replied that I worked at a school in Dongtan and her face lit up. “My live Dongtan,” she said enthusiastically and pulled out her phone. “Phone number?” I repeated it to her and she pressed send. “My phone,” she said, knowing her number would appear on my screen.

It seemed as if she wanted to keep in touch. “Do you like tea?” I asked.

“My love tea!” she exclaimed. “Tomorrow? When you job off?” I told her I got out at 6. “At six you job end, you call.” Clearly, then, it was a date.

I nervously checked my phone promptly at six the next day; I didn’t want her to think I was late or had stood her up. “Where are you?” she asked me when I called, accenting the “you.” Her inflection sounded as if we had been on the phone for several seconds already and were playing a bit of conversation volleyball: “Where are you? No, no, where are you? You go first—No, you!”

I didn’t know how to indicate where I was in simple terms. I was standing next to the fire station on the street corner across from the cell phone store. Could an ESL learner understand all that? “I am at Metapolis,” I said, referring to the tallest apartment buildings in Dongtan, what loomed in front of me on the opposite side of the intersection. She vowed to be there in ten minutes.

It didn’t occur to me until after I had hung up the phone to make sure I let the woman know I was behind instead of in front of the buildings, as the structure was at least as large as a city block. Ten minutes turned into fifteen, then twenty, as I stood on the corner in my high heels, jeans, and light fleece jacket; slowly the minute hand on my watch crept to 6:30. The sun was setting and with nightfall came even cooler autumn air that began to pierce my three thin layers. I almost wished I had brought the leather jacket she had picked out for me the night before. I jammed my fists into my jacket pockets to keep them warm.

Through a series of brief phone calls, the two of us finally coordinated our respective locations and it seemed I would not have to wait much longer. Now across the street in front of Tom and Tom’s Coffee, a Korean coffee shop much like Starbucks, I eyed a woman in a pink jogging suit with a kinky shoulder-length cut headed my way. She smiled as she saw me, gave me a quick embrace, and, in true Korean fashion, reached for my hand like a close friend might. “No stay here,” she suggested. That was fine by me; I had wanted to show her the popular Seattle coffee shop, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, anyway.

“You eat dinner?” she asked as we walked to the shop. When I told her no, she replied, “Me too,” and suggested we have some bread with our tea. I thought over how much cash I had on me and decided I had about eighteen thousand won, enough for tea and bread. Though I wasn’t too hungry, a muffin or other pastry with my tea sounded like a good idea.


I was in good spirits and quite looking forward to what I hoped would be a relaxing visit with my new Korean friend--I was even excited about the prospect of practicing what little of the language I knew. “Yogi-so,” I happily pointed out as we arrived on the steps of The Coffee Bean. Here we are.

At the register, Young Suk ordered for us in Korean. She asked me if I wanted cheesecake and I modestly said yes, pointing to the berry one. She ordered a bagel for herself and we both decided on Pomegranate Blueberry green tea. As is Korean custom, she didn’t let me spend my won but put the bill on her own card. Koreans, it seems, never entertain thoughts of going Dutch.

We chose a comfortable table by the window and sat across from each other in gray armchairs. I wondered how awkward the night might be as I left to find some sugar. What had I gotten myself into at the thrift store—a lengthy conversation with a complete stranger who wanted to pay for tea? How could we communicate if neither of us knew much of the other’s language?

“How long you stay in Korea?” Young Sook asked upon my return. When I shrugged an unsure reply, she smiled and tapped her temple. “My think three years.” She nodded and tapped her temple again emphatically. “My think.”

She started to form a statement about the “Korean lang-gajee,” but I stopped her. “You think I should stay in Korea so that I can learn the Korean language?” To this, she nodded broadly. Well, here I was—trying.


Our first language lesson of the evening was how to communicate the distance from The Coffee Bean to our respective homes. She asked what the phrasing would be in English to tell how long it would take to get to her place and I offered, “It takes fifteen to twenty minutes to walk home from here”—a sentence we practiced in both languages. As she repeated the phrase in Korean, I caught the word “yogi,” which means “here.” I started to transliterate its sounds onto the napkin we were using as a chalkboard, but she stopped me.

I had written the letters as they sounded to my untrained ears, ㅇ ㅛ ㄱ ㅣ ( y-oh-g-i). “You’re cute,” she said as she took the pen from me. “This children write.” Deftly, she wrote the word again, this time with the correct vowel, ㅇ ㅕ ㄱ ㅣ --여기. As there are twenty-one vowels in the Korean alphabet, I was bound to get a couple wrong eventually.

As the conversation lengthened, she asked the name of my hagwon and whether there were any other foreigners teaching there. “There is one, James. He’s from England.” I thought a moment. “Yong-guk saram.”

She repeated the phrase in Korean and her eyes lit up. She thumbed a word into her cell phone dictionary, then turned the screen to me. “Are you…?” she asked; the entry read “intimates.”

I sat back, almost appalled. “No!” I corrected passionately. Clearly, the word held a milder connotation for my Korean counterpart than it did for my American fellows back home.

She went back to her phone intently. “Then you must be—” She showed me again; this time it read “lonely.” I nodded knowingly as we sat in silence for a moment. “Me, too,” she said.

“He has a fiancé,” I told her. As she looked at me puzzled, I quickly typed it in. “Igo,” I said. “He has this.” She nodded in understanding.


We chatted long into the night this way, switching clumsily from Korean to English out of mutual concern for the other's understanding. Our cell phones were never far from our reach during our conversation, in case we were ever at a loss for words! Soon, however, it was time for the night's introductions to draw to a close and, as we prepared to leave, my companion grew thoughtful. "Jenny-pah, Young Sook, intimates? [Friends?] That's okay?"


I nodded. "Kinchanayho," I confirmed. That's okay.


That night she asked if we could meet again, this time the following Thursday instead of Friday--and on that Thursday asked me to come back the next week. It's become sort of a regular date, these Thursday night meetings. Each week at the close of our conversation, Young Sook customarily asks if I can come again and each week I enthusiastically agree and mentally clear the day of any pressing matters that might wait until later.


I was nervous as I waited outside her apartment building the first time she invited me over, but I soon realized I had no valid reason to be: If this budding friendship was from the hand of the LORD, its good fruit of blessing would show through; and if not, I would soon see its true colors. So far, it's been the former. Through our informal meetings we each have a chance to speak into the other's lives, "as iron sharpen[ing] iron," despite any communication hindrance. Two weeks ago, she took the liberty to speak into mine.


"Your..." She hesitated as I glanced at the clock: 9:25, five minutes past our agreed-upon time of departure. We were sitting on the floor of her apartment after a tasty ramyen-noodle and cheesy corn dinner, studying and chit-chatting as normal. Earlier that evening she had expressed concern that I be out of her apartment at a more decent hour than I had been at times past. "You go home?" she asked.


"Kinchanahyo. It's okay. You said 'your'?"


"Your..." she thought a moment. "You Korea one year, Mexico, one or two years, Korea come back one or two years. Why?"


"I know Spanish and I want to use it," I offered quickly. My friend apparently needed more to go on than that; as we contemplated my future, she asked about my goal, where I see myself ending up.


"I don't know," I said contemplatively. "I [eventually] want to be a missionary. I don't know what I'll do next. I don't think I'll stay in Korea. My job is not good." I told her of my school's recent struggle to pay its foreign teachers on time. Payment was late for September and this month, I still had not been paid in full ten days after payday.


Young Sook pulled herself erect in righteous anger as she heard my report. "You talking to school?" she asked gently. She reminded me that it was no one else's place but my own to step up and say something. "Young Sook"--she pointed to herself and counted off on her hands--"Jenny-pah parents, puh-rends talking to school--no! You working."


I thought about the absurdity of my family flying all the way over just to talk to my school about the issue. No one else could do this for me because no one else worked there; no one else was in my stead. She paused to pantomime someone conducting English classes, as I soaked up her meaning. I whispered what she was trying to say in English as a point of piercing clarification. It was as as if the LORD were speaking through her. Yes, Lord, I humbly prayed.


She reminded me that it wasn't going to be an easy thing to approach them, but that it was my right and that I was just in so doing. "Teacher," she said in English, playing my role. "I'm hungry. You [referencing the school] are going through--" She whipped out her cell phone and quickly tapped something in hangul as she acted out the scene; I read "hardship." "But I am this, too," she continued, indicating the freshly-found word. "I need my money. Chuseyo." Please.


The conversation continued until it was time to leave, but my friend would not let me forget my duties. "Jenny-pah," she reminded me as we exited her apartment door, gentle but firm. Her words were weighty as I took them in, nodding my consent. "Tomorrow. Talk to school."


I remembered her direction the following Monday as I sat down at my desk, just after a meeting with the director. Swiftly, I sent her the results of the conversation. "Good morning, Young Sook," I texted. "I talked with my school today."


Within minutes she replied. "Good afternoon, Jennifer. That's good [what] you say. How [was] that?"

And then in a separate text a moment later, she sent something a little unexpected. All it said was, "Fighting spirit!" Now, tha's th' ticket, lassie!

Monday, September 13, 2010

The Benefits of Language Barriers


Tonight as I was coming home, I remembered the vase I had bought for Jack Teacher's flowers. It had been sitting empty on my refrigerator for a week and I was in need of something pretty to fill it. Inspired by Jack's gesture, over the last month I have begun keeping a fresh supply of arrangements in the apartment. I usually don't spend very much on them, sam chon won (3,000 won, or $2.60) at most--just something simple, homey, and "everyday." They provide a much-needed reminder of the beauty and serenity of God's natural world amid the city's hectic schedules and stuffy concrete enclosures. Even Frankie enjoys it when I bring a fresh batch home, as he gets to inhale the scent of adventure and the longed-for outdoors once again.

As a consequence of my indulgence, I have also been sampling the different mom-and-pop florists around me. I've been to a shop about two blocks from my house, one at the nearby train station, and a few days ago I stumbled upon one off the main road that I have yet to visit. Most of the shops can be identified--for those of us whose skill at reading hangul leaves a bit to be desired--by the profusion of plant life which litters their entrances and the sidewalks in front of them. Stepping inside, one notes that they each offer much the same merchandise at much the same price: larger potted plants like orchids or bamboo for sah man or oh man won ($45); tiny, rubbery plants or cacti for oh chon won ($4.50); and cut flower arrangements of varying sizes and prices.

One such store lies just inside the Lotte Cinema intersection, the centerpiece of a bustling restaurant and entertainment district. As I passed by it tonight, I decided to have a look. Once inside, I walked the few steps towards the green buckets on the floor containing water and the stems of various types of flowers. I noted four different colors of rose--red, hot pink, yellow, and
a paler pink--as well as two or three other less-identifiable blossoms. A thick bunch of bright yellow petals, which looked like they could be miniature sunflowers, sat in a bucket at the back of the group.

The florist's workstation rested against the side wall of the store and stood mere inches from the fresh flower pots, ready for quick arrangements with its rolls of paper, green wire, and ribbon dangling within arms' reach. A woman stood in front of the table manning the shop. I pointed to the pale pink roses. "Igo mohyo?" I asked. How much?

She picked up an entire bunch and held it a little out of the water. "Man won." Ten thousand.

I considered them for a moment; I hadn't wanted to spend that much. I pointed to the yellow ones in the back. "Igo?" I asked.

"Pal chon." My eyes lit up. I pointed to the yellow and bright pink roses. Chon won each, she said. One thousand. I could buy the yellow ones, throw in a rose or two, and still be under five thousand won--sweet!

"Igo chuseyo," I commanded politely, indicating the yellow petals. Those please. She looked at me and asked if I wanted anything else. "Igo" --I pointed to the yellow rose-- "hago igo." And this, the bright pink one.

I was a bit mistaken about the price, however. As I considered the paler pink roses for inclusion in my arrangement, the florist looked at me. "Igo, man won," she said. All of this for ten thousand. And that's when I remembered--pal chon. That's right! Eight thousand! I was thinking eight hundred!

I considered what was in her hand, pointing to the yellow flowers. I thought about the poor vase waiting at home and how it could hold such a cacophony of vegetation. "Igo, chogum?" I asked timidly. Can I have a little? She shook her head; they were sold together, as one bunch. I shrugged. They were pretty. Perhaps my vase would be big enough. There went my household budget for the week, then.

The florist looked at me again and asked something in Korean. I thought she was asking if I wanted to take them home. "Ne," I affirmed as I held out my green man-won bill. Yes, I would love to. I watched as she snipped the stems, patted them dry, and twisted wire around them to make a tight bundle. I assumed she'd soon roll the flowers in a bit of plastic and I expected her to hand them over at any moment, but she kept right on working. Intrigued, I kept watching.

I saw her reach for one and then a second roll of textured material, one a gauzy netting and the other traditional-type paper wrapping. She bunched the white netting in an appealing maze of twists and hoops close toward the petals, securing it with wire; I thought that was pretty enough. She then took the ivory paper and wrapped it around the entire arrangement, forming a bouquet as it flared out over the buds. I noted her pulling meters of wide flowery-gold ribbon from its spool and looping it over and over to form a bunchy bow, which she secured at the base of the flare. As the finishing touch, she sprayed the roses with a dew-like liquid and dusted the petals with shiny, gold glitter.

I felt like a bride as she handed me the finished bouquet, in awe of her talent as an artist. I could have just come from a wedding, I thought, as I walked down the street toward my apartment. Had I understood what she was saying, I probably wouldn't have asked for such an elaborate floral display. It was, however, a pleasant surprise. I suppose there are, indeed, some benefits to the language barrier after all.